A seasonaire’s guide to Morzine
For a small French village, Morzine is well known for its size. Morzine is located in the Portes du Soleil ski area which- if you believe the lift companies- has 650km of piste. A skiable area this size makes it the second biggest in the world. I have lived in Morzine for large parts of the winters in 2017/18 and 2022. Accompanying the skiing, Morzine has a reputation for being a lively resort and, in my opinion, is a great place to do a season. If anyone is heading to Morzine in winter and would like to have bit of an insight of a seasonaire, this is my guide.
The ski area
Portes du Soleil is a massive ski area. For anyone worried about running out of piste in a season, this really is as big as it gets. The area is made from 13 resorts with 3 major ski towns surrounding Morzine. Les Gets, Avoriaz and Chatel. From Avoriaz you can drop down into Switzerland and it goes on. To do a ‘loop’ of the resort can rush experienced skiers to last lifts. The size of the area is made possible by how well linked the ski resort is. You ski the area and barely have to take your skis off.
The next question- what are the conditions like? Well that depends where you go. If you take the Pleney Gondola out of Morzine, it will take you to ski the Morzine-Les Gets side. Here the area is at a lower elevation so ice is common. It can be great on a powder day though with loads of nice runs through the trees and the snow tends to stay good for a while. Don’t be surprised if it is icy for most of the season though.
If you decide to take the Super Morzine Gondola or take the ‘A’ bus it’ll take you 15 minutes to get to the Prodains lift which takes you up to Avoriaz. In Avoriaz the condition of the snow is usually better and similar to most in Europe. Avoriaz sits at 1,800 metres compared to Morzine at 1,000. This makes a difference over most of the season. Avoriaz is also great on a powder day on the unfrequent occasions they happen. When it does snow make sure to go up the Grandes Combes lift, some of best powder riding I’ve done.
Ok next question- what’s the terrain like? Due to the size of Portes du Soleil, it’s pretty much got everything. If you’re thinking Morzine for a season make sure to buy a pass for the whole Portes du Soleil, it is expensive but it’s the best money you can spend on season. You are there for the skiing/snowboarding and it opens up so much great terrain. You can decide to buy a cheaper pass that gives you Morzine-Les Gets and Avoriaz. I did this on my first time in Morzine and there was still plenty to keep you busy for the season. Here pistes can be flat with the runs from Nyon directly into Morzine and Les Gets being a bit awkward. The terrain does vary massively as if you head up the chamossiere lift on an icy day things can get hairy. It’s good fun if you’re looking for a more intense day. A bit of a hidden gem is the Mont-Chèry lift which has great wide runs with some steep areas too. It can be the quietest place in resort when it’s packed, you can spend the whole day there and struggle to be bored. To get back to Morzine you also need to ski across a road which is fun and a bit of a surprise thrill.
On the Avoriaz side of Morzine, the terrain is vast and varied. There’s an enormous spread of runs and if you head up the Chaux Rosees or the Cornebois lifts there’s usually good snow and runs. On a blue bird day the view is usually incredible, especially if you take the Rochassons back to Avoriaz. For another great view, you can drop down the red run, Col des Portes du Soleil-Les Crosets and get treated to a clear view of the Dents du Midi.
However I have seen how the season 22/23 has started and the snow looks really bad. Its too warm to snow.
Click here to get a map of the resort: https://winter.intermaps.com/portes_du_soleil
Morzine for beginners- I went to Morzine on my first season having only snowboarded indoors beforehand. I sometimes found the terrain really tricky and with how icy the resort is, things could get overwhelming. I’d recommend trying to get out for at least one holiday before going on season. You could be chucked in with good skiers/snowboarding and being the slowest in the group gets old quick.
Jobs
Jobs are the worse thing when it comes to a season so its important that you get one that you won’t hate. I have done two different jobs at the same hotel L’Hermine Blanche. On my first season I was a housekeeper and I don’t know anyone who’s enjoyed housekeeping, I certainly didn’t. The second season I worked as a pot-wash and had a much better time. The important thing to consider is if you’re going to hate doing your job, either know that and get over it or don’t go. Jobs can get in the way of enjoying your season and- unless you’re there for your job- the job is the last thing you should be thinking about when on the slopes. Brexit has also made seasons in Europe more difficult and you might just have to take what you’re given.
I have worked for Alpine Elements for two of my seasons and the way the company is run is madness. If you can block out a few crazy resort managers you, can have a great time. I think this probably goes for most jobs in Morzine.
Bars, pubs & clubs
Morzine has a bit of a reputation among the English as a resort with a big drinking scene. Having spent some time there, nights can get a bit crazy. Morzine is a great place to ski alcohol free but it can really come alive with a few beers in the evening. Here are some of the places I like to drink in Morzine:
For aprės- if you’re looking for a party, go to Happy Hours on Wednesday. Wednesdays tend to be the seasonaire’s day off resort wide so après can get a bit wild. In Avoriaz there is also a Folie Douce, its not for me but if champagne showers are your kind of thing, you’ll be at home there. A bit of a left-field après bar is Bar Robison. The place tends to be quiet but can get busy at times with a more relaxed crowd. Don’t let that fool you though as the bar sells ‘Mutzig made me do it’ t-shirts. Celebrating the local larger which is 5.5% but after three of them you can start to feel wobbly. On the Morzine-Les Gets side of skiing there used to be a great bar called Inferno but it was a casualty of covid. Your best bet is ‘Le Tremplin’ for a party.
Pubs- A few personal favourites of mine are located towards the church in central Morzine. Dixie’s Irish Bar is a great spot for sport and comes alive during the 6 nations. Boozy affairs. Close to Dixie’s is Roger’s. Roger’s is a really cosy bar with a local feel. Roger’s is also great place to have a few shots of Génépi. Génépi, a cousin of absinthe, can be responsible for turning a few after work beers into waking up wondering where your night went. If you need a bite to eat while on the slopes, Changabang is an awesome spot but don’t expect your food quickly.
Bars- The Morzine night life tends to gather around The Cavern Bar, Tibetan, Coyote and Cafe Chaud- located a 5 minute walk from the rest. Personally I find these places a bit hit and miss but my personal favourite is Cavern. Its hard to beat when there’s a good crowd in there. If you decide to call it a night here and get the munchies you can try and pile into Shafties. Be careful- its almost guaranteed food poisoning- but you can end your night with a Jägerbomb and a donner kebab.
Clubs- In Morzine there is one club called Opera and I’d normally say stay away at all costs. It does exist though and if you find yourself on a roll you’ll probably end up in there. Its ok but so expensive for what it is.
