A guide to bouldering in Squamish by a beginner
Bouldering has grown worldwide in recent years. Indoor bouldering gyms are packed with people looking to pick up a social hobby and a change from a traditional gym. I started bouldering indoors in 2020 and in the summer of 2022 I spent a few days in and around Squamish. If you are thinking about bouldering outdoors and want to check out what outdoor bouldering is like- this can give you a taste of what to expect. All the climbs featured here are V0-V1.
Before you go
Squamish is on the West Coast of Canada in British Columbia and is a naturally beautiful area with lifetimes of climbing. Of all the places to climb around town, I am going to focus on an area called the Grand Wall. The Grand Wall is located at the base of the epic Stawamus Chief and in the summer season you can get there by catching a bus. However when September comes around you’ll be walking unless you have a car or bike. The Grand Wall is still accessible- you’ll be looking at a 20-30 minute walk from downtown. There’s a few important things I think you should know that could help you out.
The first thing to do in preparation in going to Squamish is reading about what you’re signing yourself up for. The book ‘Squamish Bouldering’ is a comprehensive guide and- in my opinion- a necessity for getting the most out of your trip. I’ll be using page references from the book throughout this piece. The book is available to rent from either Valhalla Outfitters or Climb On for a reasonable price. In my opinion, you should buy it. You can also read about Squamish and its history of bouldering before getting into the mix. The book makes for a cool souvenir but at a price of around $60 it could cause a beginner to be standoff-ish. There’s also a lot of information online about Squamish bouldering but having to rely on a small phone screen and intermittent signal can be frustrating.
Kit and accommodation
If you’ve bouldered before you’ll know what’s up. For first timers, a crash mat is necessary and if you want to err on the side of caution, maybe think about hiring two. You’ll also need a chalk bag and climbing shoes.
If you need to hire kit the main climbing store in Squamish is ‘Climb On’. If you want to check the prices out, the photo on the right has them. Just be careful- if you need to hire a crash mat there are some big deposits you will need to put down. You get your money back, but it can leave your bank account stinging for a week until you’re reimbursed.
For places to stay, Squamish Adventure Inn is great but can get really busy on weekends so book ahead- especially on weekends. The staff are friendly and there’s a vibrant atmosphere. The other lodgers tend to be great too as everyone has a passion for the outdoors and- who knows- you might end up rubbing shoulders with some great climbers. The hostel has a no ‘hard’ booze policy so no spirits allowed. It works- you’re able to get a decent night’s sleep to make the most out of the next day. For a single bed in a dorm you’re looking at around $45 and $100+ for a private room.
For a cheaper option the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground is a great looking campsite and costs $10 a night. You’re camping a 5 minute walk from the Grand Wall- you couldn’t be closer to the bouldering.
The main path through the campground
The hostel patio area- a great place to relax with a beer after a day outdoors. I even saw a bear run passed.
The climbs
Squamish Days (V0)
The Grand Wall is an easy place to get disorientated on, using boulders as landmarks can be difficult to an unfamiliar eye. There are paths through the boulder fields and navigating the area can be done- asking fellow climbers is a great way to find your way and people are happy to help.
If you take the bus to the Grand Wall, it’ll take you to the carpark and if you head up and go right at the roundabout, you’ll see an entrance to the forest which looks like this:
If you follow this path up called the Titanic Trail, it’ll take you to a boulder called the Titanic.
On the side of the boulder there’s a climb called Twister- it’s a great place to start your day and it’ll let you know where you stand. In Squamish Bouldering, the climb is located on pg. 136 and is classified as a V1. The climb is rated 4 stars- it's an enjoyable climb. The start is slippery on the hands and the moves after are fun with a typically awkward top out.
There’s also a climb near Twister called Stu’s Dyke which is hidden behind a tree and it's a good warm. Realistically you should be nailing Stu’s Dyke or else you’re in for a long day. It’s a V0 and one of the very few on the Grand Wall which feels like it.
If you head North from Titanic, you will come across an area named originally as Titanic North. Here you can find a climb called Smear Traverse (pg.141) which is rated a V1. The start is a bit awkward but once you pass that, things become straightforward. The battle is one of endurance and a fun challenge for a beginner.
Twister on a chilly November climb
If you follow the Titanic Trail further North, you’ll reach a bit of a decline which will take you to a boulder called Black Mark. On Black Mark, there’s a fun climb named Adam’s Apple, V1 (pg.144). It’s a bit tricky to get your hands and feet sorted out but with a few careful feet placements here and there you’ll be at the top. There is a big power move to top out so watch out for that one.
Near Black Mark, there’s a boulder area called Lowdown (pg.146) you can find a great strength-based climb called Jughead. It’s a V0 with only one move and a good confidence builder.
Adam’s Apple
That could be enough for one day and destroy the skin on your fingers but if you’re keen to keep going there’s more challenging climbs to do for beginners. Keep walking North down the path and you will come across the Squamish Days boulder in the Viper area.
Squamish Days (pg.160) is a V0 and rated four stars but can’t be compared to a V0 in a U.K gym. It's tough.
Squamish bouldering has the climb as a warmup but if that’s how you start your day, you’re wasting your time reading this. You also gain a bit of height climbing which can get the blood pumping.
To find the next climb, just continue on the path in the same direction.
If you’re a thrill seeker there’s a crazy highball in the Black Dyke area. One of the climbs is rated a V1 and called Everest on Spotters on Strike (pg.171). Everest is juggy the whole way up but it’s a scary climb. People have joked that if the climb was somewhere else, the climb would need a rope and a harness. I wouldn’t recommend it for your first day climbing outdoors.
The last climb I am suggesting is in the Easy Chair area. The area is hard to navigate especially for beginners as there’s a little bit of scrambling needed to get there. However if you are able to find your way, there’s a cool boulder that is a great climb. The climb is called Dyke Surfer and is rated V0. In my opinion it's not a V0 but it’s well worth a go and rated 4 stars in the book (pg.221). For those of you more experienced, the boulder face also has a V3 climb called Superdyke which is a top 100 problem. I don’t think I’ve seen anyone climb it so fair play if you decide to have a go.
Dyke Surfer in December
Superdyke- good luck
Ultimately climbing in Squamish is a great time and I couldn’t recommend it highly enough. Once you boulder outdoors, you’ll struggle to climb indoors again.
A big thanks to my friend Shlez for providing the great photos.